Locked rotor stall
current: 1.1A @12V. Supplied
headlight: 31mA @ 12V. Smoke generator: 161mA @
For your information,
I used a DH83FX decoder for this installation.
There is going to
be some work involved with this locomotive. Since the
locomotive is weighted so well and Bachmann used a minimum
of wire, this won't be an easy install. But it will be
worth it. You have DCC controlled smoke, mars light,
rear head light, and firebox flicker when done.
You will need a
decoder with similar capabilities as the DH83FX. You
should use a decoder rated for 2 amps though you would probably
be okay to use a 1 amp decoder. You definitely need a
decoder rated for 200 mA to use the smoke generator. The
smoke generator is extremely delicate. I failed at being
able to solder to it's wires without breaking it. You
almost have no chance of success. I'm not big on smoke
generators so I just tossed mine in the trash.
Removing the guts
of the locomotive may appear to be more difficult than it should
be. The secret it that after removing the front and rear
underside screw, you will need to pry on the rear a bit to
get it come free. The reason is that Bachmann has a plastic
post that sticks into the undercarriage and is a fairly tight
fit. Just pry straight up.
guts to get to the motor is somewhat
Remove the short silver screw to
the wire on the
black short screws from under the drive wheels.
screws from the front and rear sides of the weight. Look
carefully on the opposite side of the weight. There
is a plastic plug in these two places. Push the plug
out from the side the screws were. Btween the weight, plastic
spacers will fall on the floor and you may loose them. Go
ahead and look for them now, I'll wait.
weight. Pry on the plastic under the drive wheels.
Hidden behind the rear most driver you will find another
screw, plug, and spacer.
upside down, pry on the rear edge of the plastic under
the wheels. While lifting push forward.
hand, pry up and out the best you can between the plastic
and the weights between the cylinders.
With your fourth
hand, pry the plastic lip that is hooked under the front
edge of the weight forward.
This thing is really
hooked good. It took a few hours of looking for something
I was missing. Eventually it popped free without a "snap!" Whew!
You are right, the
plastic plugs and screws didn't have to be removed before this
bottom piece was removed. But if you were prying and
prying like I was, you wouldn't believe this don't have to
be removed first. You would also be worrying I left out
and instrution and you would be looking for a screw I forgot
to tell you to remove. If you have faith in me, do steps
3 and 4 after step 7.
Whatever you do,
don't remove the plastic cylinders off the weights. As
much as the supplied drawing implicates them, they are not
involved in taking the locomotive apart.
Remove the drive
wheel sets. Leave them attached to the valve gear.